Wolf Mountain/Blue Lagoon – Sudbury East
by Back Roads Bill
It might be winter time and you have just visited Wolf Mountain one of the finest vistas in Northeastern Ontario. Come back for another look and maybe a swim at a place that is almost “paradise.”
People often ask where a really neat place to go swimming is. Not a beach but a good ‘ole swimming hole.
It is often a difficult question to answer as each location has its own attraction. But Paradise or “Blue” Lagoon comes to mind as it creates an image as a special back roads destination.
The word paradise is a religious or metaphysical term for a place in which existence is positive, harmonious and eternal. It is a place of contentment.
(There was a 1958 movie, called ‘Paradise Lagoon,’ a wonderful story of a Butler for a wealthy English family who rises above his servant status after being shipwrecked.)
Most canoeists who pass along the river don’t even know it exists as it lies off the portage and across from the main course of the Chiniguchi River and associated waterfall. Most people see the falls but portage right past the lagoon. The water of this circular, seemingly bottomless lagoon is often described for its “Windex” like colour and is surrounded by steep rock walls of granite and quartz. Its colour scheme is a hangover from the past acidification of area lakes by the original smelters in nearby Coniston and Copper Cliff. Access is by water or a secret back roads access by car. It could be a scene from the movie of the same name or somewhere in the Caribbean. It might be a “sit,” “magic,” or “me” spot. One of those places for solace, inspiration and rejuvenation or, just a great swimming hole on a hot summer’s day.
When you go for a plunge you may not be aware of the murky waters that surround the pleasurable experience and the setting. Although you are there for a dip all is not harmonious.
Paradise Lagoon is just south and physically connected by the Chiniguchi River to the controversial Wolf Lake Forest Reserve. By locals the surrounding area is known as “little Killarney” for its spectacular scenery of quartzite rock and majestic red pine trees.
Within the municipal boundary is the Chiniguchi River Park including Wolf Lake Forest Reserve. At present logging have been prohibited but mining exploration remains a permitted activity.
This June a media release from the University of Guelph, School of Environmental Sciences reported new research allowing mining in the Wolf Lake area “would significantly threaten the largest remaining red pine forest left in the world.”
“Wolf Lake deserves intensive study, monitoring and full protection from future development,” said Guelph professor Mahdur Anand.
Another interesting aspect, Paradise Lagoon and Wolf Lake is within the rural limits of the City of Greater Sudbury (Ward Seven). The city’s own Green Space Advisory Committee has recommended Wolf Lake remain an ecological reserve within the official plan. The Wolf Lake Coalition group made up of more than 20 organizations says: “Ontario should respect the decision of Greater Sudbury to place Wolf Lake off-limits to industry and include a substantial buffer zone.” In the report ‘Ten Reasons to Protect Wolf Lake Forever’ it states the mining industry (Flag Resources) has had more than “a fair shot at Wolf Lake.” Since 1980 the exploration company has drilled 230 holes in and around Wolf Lake. “In the process Flag has destroyed popular campsites, craved heavy machinery tracks through the old growth, knocked down ancient pines and run oily drill rigs through pristine creek beds. But it has yet to find a deposit it can sell.” It is time to let the far greater ecological, social and economic values prevail. “The Wolf Lake area is a drop in the ocean of Ontario’s mining exploration lands, bit it is the rare jewel in crown of Ontario’s old growth red pine forests.”
Franco Mariotti is a staff scientist at Science North in Sudbury. He said one tree taken for research purposes shows the tree had survived five ground fires in its 240 year history. He said the old growth red pine is truly a succession forest with many age classes. Research is indicating fire has something to do with the regeneration.
On his own accord he says, “It would be incredibly naive and ignorant of our past history as a lumbering community before Sudbury became a mining community and incredibly short sighted of our future if we don’t protect Wolf Lake.”
Access
A great two or three day canoe loop to scout on your map is the Matamagasi, (start) Silvester, Wolf, Dewdney, Chiniguchi, Laura, Evelyn, Irish, Bonesteel and Wesell Lakes to McCarthy Bay (NE arm of Matagmasi Lake (back to your starting access.)
For a day trip and direct access to the Blue Lagoon the best access is at the narrows between Matamagasi Lake and Lake Wanapitei (N46º 45’ 16.7” W80º 37’17.4” or WGS 84 17 T E 528908 N 5177969. Paddle northwards and take the NW arm to the end of the bay. There is one portage and another short paddle going upstream on the Chiniguchi River. You will soon arrive at the Chiniguchi Falls, a worthwhile sight. Walk the portage upstream to the north end and Silvester Lake. Immediately ford the narrow passage (you may need your canoe). Once you have crossed to the east side walk about 100 m to the Blue Lagoon, hidden from portage where you were!
This is the secret back roads access. You can mountain or go by ATV. Paper or digital topographic maps will help. You can drive and take a very short hike into the Paradise Lagoon via the Kukagami Lake Rd. north from Highway 17, just east of Sudbury (Wanapitei). Follow the signs to the Sportsman’s Lodge. Drive northwards approximately 11 km and cross what was the railway line. Continue to follow the signs to Sportsman’s Lodge for another 11 km. You will come to a major intersection and turn left or northwards (do not follow the signs to the Sportsman’s Lodge and Kukagami Lake.)Turn on to Matamagasi Lk. Rd. and then Bushy Bay Rd. You will be travelling approximately 10 km to the Lake Wanapitei/Matamagasi Lk. Narrows. (This is where you could launch a canoe.)
*Drive on…you will travel on past the narrows between Lake Wanapitei and Matamagasi. You will drive past many entrances to camps and cottages. It remains a good gravel road. This is where your GPS comes in handy as you will drive approximately 12 km more on a primary forest access road to a road on the right (E) that turns SE; N46º 49’ 59.2” W80º 39’ 14.2” or 17 T E526390 N5186676. You will travel less than 1 km and look for the trail on the left or NE side. It is about a 300 m walk (NE) into the lower end of the Paradise Lagoon N46º 49’ 56.5” W80º 38’ 38.8” or 17 T E527141 N5186597. You can walk around on the east side. (If you drive past this turn and continue on the main road you will come to a snowmobile trail sign pointing NNW to a road that takes you to Wolf Lake Mountain; a great view of the area’s dotted lakes. Drive further on and you can access Silvester Lake right off of the main road and paddle downstream to Paradise Lagoon or north into Wolf Lake.)
‘Paradise Regained’ is the sequel to epic poem “Paradise Lost’ by John Milton. It is a shorter poem and centers on the confrontation between Jesus and Satan in the wilderness centred on the theme of temptation, all within fundamental Christian theology of the 17th century. It may not be in context to compare what is happening within the Paradise Lagoon area to an epic poem. The opportunity to create a greater good out of conflict within nature may exist in a similar way. Or just enjoy the blue water and the swim. Look forward to your next adventure in Northeastern Ontario.
For KMZ, GPX and Maps Wolf Mountain/Paradise Falls
Google Maps This takes you to the top of Wolf Mountain and the Blue (Paradise) Lagoon below. Access is off of the Kukagami Rd, east of Sudbury and north of Hwy. 17. Click on the more info pop-up and there also the Satellite View (you can zoom in and out + (in) and – (out); you have to zoom out to use the terrain map.