‘Voyageur Past and Present’ – French River – Hwy. 69

A Different Northern Ontario

by Back Roads Bill

As you cross the largest snowmobile bridge in the world on the French River, consider the magnificent view. At one time if history would have become reality you might be looking at ocean going freighters!

(Or you may be walking or snowshoeing to the scenic Recollet Falls just west of the interpretative centre.)

In the history of humankind, it is difficult to pin point events that changed the course of the history. Generally many series of events lead to momentous circumstances. Never mind Northern Ontario, Canada would be a different place if the Georgian Bay Ship Canal became a reality.

Ships the length of two football fields using the French River and Lake Nipissing laden with grain from the prairies? This vision at one time almost became a reality. Highway 69 may not have become a reality.

The proposed Georgian Bay Ship Canal was promoted as a project with the magnitude of a Panama Canal. This waterway would have allowed Great Lake freighters to travel directly from Lake Huron to Montreal

As early as 1837, pre Confederation, the Family Compact members of the Assembly of Upper Canada ordered a survey of the possible route. The War of 1812 was still fresh in the minds of the politicians and an inland waterway would skirt American influence.

Canada’s first Prime Minister, Sir John A. Macdonald, recognized the potential of the project: “The Ottawa Ship Canal and the Pacific Railroad must be constructed and no voice should be raised against the great national work which would open the western states and the colonies to the seaboard.”

There were a number of advantages claimed for the proposed ship canal. For one, it was the shortest route from the upper Great lakes to the ocean harbour of Montreal.

The Way

The surveyed waterway was essentially a scheme to canalize a number of rivers and lakes which exist along the old voyageur fur trading route of the French, Mattawa and Ottawa Rivers.

In 1904, the Department of Public Works was instructed to undertake a detailed field study of the route. The finished report of 1907 included a geological survey of rock formations, depth soundings of Lake Nipissing and engineering details of dams and canals. The original 600 page document contains a wealth of detail and gives evidence of an impressive study. The navigable waterway was estimated to be 70 kilometres long. The French River, including the creation of a lock and dam at the Chaudiere rapids, would be an important bridging point which would allow the lake level to rise. This was necessary to accommodate ships that would have a draft of almost seven metres deep. The high steel gates, at the Big Chaudiere Dam on the French River, were designed in preparation for such a canal. Take a look this summer as you travel by boat and canoe through the Upper and Lower French River.   Look at www.northernontario.travel for more information.

From the report, the engineers stated that a total of eight single and three double locks were needed to connect the various bodies of water. There would have been 11 changes of water levels ranging from three to 19 metres. In conclusion, the report stated, “…the probable cost of a deep waterway can be established for $100 million…the work taking 10 years to complete.”

The chief engineer for the project promised that a “630 ft. (approximately 200 metres) freighter, moving at 12 miles per hour could navigate the entire distance of the passage in 70 hours.”

Panama Canal

What we fail to realize when looking at this project, is that the magnitude, was on the scale of the Panama Canal.  The Welland Canal would be pale in comparison. The Georgian Bay Ship Canal was one way to foster nationalism and an economic response to the demands of the new frontier   the prairies.

With the movement of cattle, grain, lumber and minerals through the Nipissing Passageway, a significant economic impact would have been created. A new port on Georgian Bay would have become the logical location for a variety of processing plants. Goods manufactured in the area would have been transported to lucrative Southern Ontario markets.

The mega project’s demise can be attributed to the might of the powerful railway conglomerates of the day that had their own visions of transportation. The technology to construct the plan was in place, but the railway companies thought it was best to lay down railway tracks, rather than try to blast through the Canadian Shield. Canals that had previously been constructed, throughout North America, were not turning profits. It would have taken billions of dollars. Another reason, overlooked by the early surveys of the 1850’s, was identified in the field work of 1906. The immense physical changes were great, not unlike the scope of the James Bay power project.

Apart from practical considerations, the political ramifications certainly were overwhelming. The competition between Toronto and Montreal as Canada’s leading centre, was a determining factor in turning support away from such a project. No project that would benefit the development of Montreal

In 1953, work began on the St. Lawrence Seaway. It was a longer distance than the Georgian Bay Ship Canal and involved much American ownership. The dream of a once, navigable waterway, from Lake Huron to Montreal was dead. Look forward to you next adventure in Northeastern Ontaro at www.northernontario.travel.

Don’t miss this amazing display of the fascinating history and geological features of the French River! You can weave your way through time as you experience the life of early Aboriginal people, explorers, missionaries and voyageurs.

Find a souvenir at the Centre’s shop, see a spectacular view of the French River gorge and take the trail to the scenic and historic Recollet Falls. (The snowmobile bridge has a span of over 300’ and rises to 50’ above the French River. )

The interpretative centre (N46° 01’ 00.8” W80° 35’ 01.6” or WGS 84 Zone 17 T E 532220 N 5096007) is located on the west side of Highway 69, 80 km (50 miles) south of Sudbury and 95 km (60 miles) north of Parry Sound. It is a four season destination, a great place to trailer to and unload your snowmobiles (OFSC trail # C ; go to www.ofsc.on.ca – you can purchase GPS tracks online )from; the parking lot is maintained throughout the winter.   Or take your snowshoes, Recollet Falls is just more than one km to the west, a must see in the winter or any time of the year.

For more information go to http://www.visitfrenchriver.com/ or http://www.ontarioparks.com/park/frenchriver .

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